BLEACH!!!
As always my curiosity gets the best of me, I seem to find myself watching (or rather, cringing) at bleaching "tutorials" on youtube. It also cringes me that these videos have so many views and the people are giving the complete wrong information. I am going to write about common bleach myths and the actual truth behind them!
Bleach Myth #1 - Use of peroxide and development
One of the most common misconceptions of using bleach is the level of peroxide you should use. The first rule of bleach is to never use 40 vol for global (scalp) applications - ONLY for partial (off the scalp) applications. All bleach should be developed for 50 minutes - any less will make the application come out patchy and underdeveloped. What you have to remember with bleach is that it is a slow process and you have to be patient. When using bleach it usually lifts around 7-8 levels (depending on which bleach being used) so you should only really be using a 20 vol peroxide for scalp applications and 30 vol if it absolutely necessary. I'd say 85% of global applications in the salon I work in are using a 20vol peroxide. The level of peroxide does not determine how much the hair lifts, 30 vol should only be used on hair that has a lot of natural warmth and the client has previously had problems lifting their hair to a pale yellow undertone which is needed for a "white" or "platinum" look.
Bleach Myth #2 - Heat/no heat?
NEVER ever use heat with bleach! Bleach is like an explosion. When you apply bleach an explosion happens (that's why you see it go from brown-blonde very quickly) and then it continues to lift the hair. If you apply heat to bleach all it is going to do is harm the hair even more. You wouldn't re-start an explosion by trying to re-light it, it would be pointless. Same as applying heat to bleach. If your colourist tries to put you under heat - demand to have your colour washed off and leave, no doubt the salon is DODGY.
Bleach Myth #3 - Harm to your hair.
There have been quite a few times when I have been consulting with a client and they have said to me 'oh but i don't want you to use bleach in my hair' when there is no other possible way to put highlights in their hair. The first thing i would assure them is that we do not use bleach we use pre-lightener (clever, eh?) However it always confuses me what people's fears are from the word "bleach."
Bleach isn't damaging to your hair if it used in the right ways and if you use the right products for it. Bleach in highlights will only be used with small levels of peroxide and this minor amount will not harm your hair. Salon bleach these days contain lots of conditioning products that support the hair structure and do not damage the cuticle as much as "old style" bleach.
Best Products For Bleached + Damaged Hair
All these products in the following list are all the products that I have recommended to clients really distressed about the condition of their hair. They are all "high end" products however these will do your hair more good in the long run as the silicone in drugstore shampoos damage your hair more. (FYI I will be doing a blog post on this very soon so stay posted)
Shampoos and Conditioners
Kerastase - Bain De Force - £15-18
Ciment Anti-Usure - £18-20
Redken - Extreme Shampoo - £11-12
Extreme Conditioner - £13-14
Treatments and Masques
Redken Extreme Strength Builder for Distressed Hair (masque) - £14-16
Kerastase Forceintense (treatment) - £26-29
Leave In Treatments
Kerastase Ciment Thermique - £15-16
Redken Anti Snap Leave in Treatment - £12-14
L'Oreal professional Potionizer Leave in Treatment - £11-12
Once again thank you very much for reading!
Any questions please don't hesitate to e-mail me at lloydcourt@hotmail.co.uk
Lloyd xoxo
